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  1. #41
    B15 rebuild underway!!
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    There should be 20 pins between the timing marks on the sprockets. From the looks of the first video you have 21. The timing marks should fall in the middle of the link for the intake and the exhaust. On your intake side you are in the middle of the link but on your exhaust side you are at the end of the link. Your timing is out!

    If you really want a proper visual, you should rotate the engine by hand until the yellow timing marks on the chain are lined up with the timing marks on the sprockets. This usually happens once every (appx.) 100 engine rotations.

    You need:

    - Yellow timing chain marks and timing marks on sprockets (cam gears) to match
    - Crank pulley at TDC (2nd mark from left)
    - cyl. #1 cam lobes pointing away from eachother
    - confirmed piston #1 is at TDC with a screwdriver
    - Intake sprocket key @ 10 o'clock/ Exhaust sprocket key @ 12 o'clock
    - 20 pins in between the timing marks
    - 11 total chain links used. (9 full links, 1/2 for intake & 1/2 half for exhaust)
    - no chain slack in between the gears or in between the exhaust and the crank gear.

    What I just listed IS OVERKILL but if you confirm all of this then you can not be wrong. Also, I know some of the other members covered most of this but here it is all in the same post.

    If you have chain slack in the wrong spot, you will need to remove, compress and re-install the tensioner.

    PS - Please stop going WOT when your engine sounds like that!!
    Last edited by B15NEOVVL; 12-13-12 at 12:32 AM.

  2. #42
    B15 rebuild underway!!
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    Here you go man. Check these two threads for reference pictures of what I mean about the 20 pins, 11 total links (9, 1/2, 1/2), etc.

    HOW TO: Check camshaft timing

    cam timming???

    Note that in the second thread (picture) the timing marks on the chain (grey on this chain) don't line up with the cam gears timing marks but he still has the 20 pins in between and the proper amount of links, etc, etc. The yellow marks on your chain (OEM colour) will only line up once every 100 or 200 rotations (can't remember exactly). They don't have to match the cam gear marks in order for the timing to be correct but it provides a proper visual and if you do this, you will see that your timing is off.
    Last edited by B15NEOVVL; 12-13-12 at 01:17 AM.

  3. #43
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    i reset the timing.


    i drove down the street and back but im still getting rattle sound just not as intense, im thinking that the tensioner i got is not putting enough tension on the chain because i notice that there is sections on the chain that have more slack than others as im rotating the crank by hand.

  4. #44
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    from the vid's and the pictures, i'm confident that the link's are all ok there. i'm really not trying to confuse you re teeth/links,there just different ways of getting the same result.when you wrote 20 links,i was thinking 20 teeth...

    the driving noise,especially the start up,sounds very much like a mad chain rattle.tensioner would be plan a...

  5. #45
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    So I've Come to the conclusion that it's my tensioner. I read somewhere that they made it longer in the later Sr20 and I'm guessing the one I got from the Store is not the correct one.

    Also the gasket that is on there is leaking like crazy which is messing with the oil pressure the tensioner needs to work properly

  6. #46
    The B14 says: PPPSsSSHH
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    the new tensioner has finer teeth is stronger and longer (giggity) get it from Gspec he only has the good ones

  7. #47
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    im getting it from Travis at infiniti of Escondido. its like a 5 min drive away from me

  8. #48
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    yea i notice that with the one i have even when i rotate the motor by hand it always has a few spots that have slack between the cam gears, i think its just that my car came with the new longer one so this one just falls short of the streight and length that my car had before.

    hopefully it comes in soon and i can take care of this issue once and for all.

  9. #49
    Big kid with gray hair
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmexicang View Post
    yea i notice that with the one i have even when i rotate the motor by hand it always has a few spots that have slack between the cam gears, i think its just that my car came with the new longer one so this one just falls short of the streight and length that my car had before.

    hopefully it comes in soon and i can take care of this issue once and for all.
    Jack up the passenger side front, stick in 5th and rotate the front passenger wheel/tire clockwise to take up the chain's slack. Then check the tension on the tensioner side of the chain down below the intake cam gear. If it's all loosey goosey the tensioner isn't doing it's job. It could be bad or not engaged properly.

    Also make sure the chain is riding properly on the tensioner's guide. It should be centered and riding between the guide's ridges. Shoot a flashlight down there and see if there's any cracks or damage to the guide, as well.
    Last edited by hammerin hank; 12-14-12 at 02:11 PM.
    S62...huh?

  10. #50
    THE SE- RLOGIST
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    Quote Originally Posted by hammerin hank View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by bmexicang View Post
    yea i notice that with the one i have even when i rotate the motor by hand it always has a few spots that have slack between the cam gears, i think its just that my car came with the new longer one so this one just falls short of the streight and length that my car had before.

    hopefully it comes in soon and i can take care of this issue once and for all.
    Jack up the passenger side front, stick in 5th and rotate the front passenger wheel/tire clockwise to take up the chain's slack. Then check the tension on the tensioner side of the chain down below the intake cam gear. If it's all loosey goosey the tensioner isn't doing it's job. It could be bad or not engaged properly.
    Yes, but when he does this won't this also rotate the crankshaft......which will move it from the 0۫۫ t.d.c timing mark on the pulley?
    Last edited by Topdog781; 12-15-12 at 01:01 AM.

  11. #51
    Oh well....
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    Yes, but when he does this won't this also rotate the crankshaft......which will move it from the 0۫۫ t.d.c timing mark on the pulley?
    Well, yes, but that's inevitable
    Jordan
    '98 SE-R, '12 Versa Hatch & '14 Juke Turbo
    Music - - My SR20 website

  12. #52
    Big kid with gray hair
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    Quote Originally Posted by Topdog781 View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by hammerin hank View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by bmexicang View Post
    yea i notice that with the one i have even when i rotate the motor by hand it always has a few spots that have slack between the cam gears, i think its just that my car came with the new longer one so this one just falls short of the streight and length that my car had before.

    hopefully it comes in soon and i can take care of this issue once and for all.
    Jack up the passenger side front, stick in 5th and rotate the front passenger wheel/tire clockwise to take up the chain's slack. Then check the tension on the tensioner side of the chain down below the intake cam gear. If it's all loosey goosey the tensioner isn't doing it's job. It could be bad or not engaged properly.
    Yes, but when he does this won't this also rotate the crankshaft......which will move it from the 0۫۫ t.d.c timing mark on the pulley?
    And why is moving the crank an issue when checking tension?
    S62...huh?

  13. #53
    Oh well....
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    Quote Originally Posted by hammerin hank View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by Topdog781 View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by hammerin hank View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by bmexicang View Post
    yea i notice that with the one i have even when i rotate the motor by hand it always has a few spots that have slack between the cam gears, i think its just that my car came with the new longer one so this one just falls short of the streight and length that my car had before.

    hopefully it comes in soon and i can take care of this issue once and for all.
    Jack up the passenger side front, stick in 5th and rotate the front passenger wheel/tire clockwise to take up the chain's slack. Then check the tension on the tensioner side of the chain down below the intake cam gear. If it's all loosey goosey the tensioner isn't doing it's job. It could be bad or not engaged properly.
    Yes, but when he does this won't this also rotate the crankshaft......which will move it from the 0۫۫ t.d.c timing mark on the pulley?
    And why is moving the crank an issue when checking tension?

    I don't think he understood exactly what we were discussing
    Jordan
    '98 SE-R, '12 Versa Hatch & '14 Juke Turbo
    Music - - My SR20 website

  14. #54
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    Got the timing Done and everything seems OK. This Is A video of the sound I'm getting now. Sounds like it could be a rocker arm , guide or shim

    Last edited by bmexicang; 12-29-12 at 04:21 PM.

  15. #55
    Oh well....
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    Watched the latest video. That sound is not the shims.. That is some serious valve train noise or something else. Do you have the time to pull the valve cover off and show us what it looks like underneath?
    Last edited by Storm88000; 12-30-12 at 03:08 AM.
    Jordan
    '98 SE-R, '12 Versa Hatch & '14 Juke Turbo
    Music - - My SR20 website

  16. #56
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    Yes. Il take off the Vc Tomorrow and take a video or pics.

    I don't understand What the issue is, I replaced the tensioner with the correct one. The timing is correct as far as I know.

    Question: with the tension installed is there suppose to be any play on the guides, I noticed that the tension side chain guide has side to side play with the tensioner installed and Engaged . Could it be that it broke and is allowing The chain to moved side to side

  17. #57
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    Gonna open her up again tomorrow.

    If this motor ends Up being to much work. I'm replacing it and installing the T28 I have sitting around
    Last edited by bmexicang; 01-02-13 at 01:30 AM.

  18. #58
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    Can anyone chip in on the side to side movement of the tensioner side chain guide.

    When I say Side to side I mean towards the head and the motor mount. Not towards radiator support and firewall

  19. #59
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    new videoooo... please help. i hate not having my car im struggling with the lack of transportation


    i think that when i installed the Tensioner that i bought at the auto parts store it damaged the tensioner side chain guide, it ran fine at first with the first tensioner but after about 20 miles i think it cracked/ damaged the guide. HELP PORFAVOR

    Last edited by bmexicang; 01-09-13 at 04:22 PM.

  20. #60
    Big kid with gray hair
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmexicang View Post
    new videoooo... please help. i hate not having my car im struggling with the lack of transportation


    i think that when i installed the Tensioner that i bought at the auto parts store it damaged the tensioner side chain guide, it ran fine at first with the first tensioner but after about 20 miles i think it cracked/ damaged the guide. HELP PORFAVOR

    That side to side movement is fine on the rockers. I think the chain is fine, as well.

    Do us a favor and push down on all of the rockers above the lash adjusters. Are they rock solid?
    S62...huh?

  21. #61
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    yea their all rock solid. i checked about a week ago.
    just checked them again and their solid.

    idk what to do anymore, might just order a new motor so i dont need to deal with it anymore
    Last edited by bmexicang; 01-09-13 at 07:25 PM.

  22. #62
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    i reckon the chain is fine.

    noise sounds valve/lifter/rocker'ish to me.

  23. #63
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    What do you think is the best solution for me at the moment?

  24. #64
    Big kid with gray hair
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmexicang View Post
    Got the timing Done and everything seems OK. This Is A video of the sound I'm getting now. Sounds like it could be a rocker arm , guide or shim

    Is the tapping noise in this video coming from the top of the motor or the bottom? If it's the top, it sounds like a HLA isn't doing it's job. It's a bit of a PITA, but you would need to pulls the cams and bleed the HLA's. Refer to the FSM for this procedure. It could be one is stuck in the "down" position and the cam lobe is slapping the rocker instead of continuously riding on it. Check all of them.
    S62...huh?

  25. #65
    Big kid with gray hair
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmexicang View Post
    yea their all rock solid. i checked about a week ago.
    just checked them again and their solid.

    idk what to do anymore, might just order a new motor so i dont need to deal with it anymore
    With the cams still installed, see if you can lift the rocker off of the HLA. You could also take a feelers gauge and check to see how much gap there is between the base circle of the cam lobe and the rocker. There shouldn't be any.
    S62...huh?

  26. #66
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    i have feeler gauges. so there should be NO space whatsoever between the rocker and the cam lobe?

    if its just the HLA i dont mind taking them off and bleeding them, sounds like a lot less work than anything else ive thought up.

    Il check to see if i can pull up on any of the rockers. im hoping that it is something repairable. Do the HLAs just pull right up when you remove the cams and rockers?

  27. #67
    Big kid with gray hair
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmexicang View Post
    i have feeler gauges. so there should be NO space whatsoever between the rocker and the cam lobe?
    I'm not sure what the exact spec is. My understanding is there should be little to no gap there, however.

    Quote Originally Posted by bmexicang View Post
    if its just the HLA i dont mind taking them off and bleeding them, sounds like a lot less work than anything else ive thought up.

    Il check to see if i can pull up on any of the rockers. im hoping that it is something repairable. Do the HLAs just pull right up when you remove the cams and rockers?
    Yes, you can get them out by wrapping the end with a soft rag and pulling them with pliers. It's a really precise fit and there will be some suction, so be patient. Be careful to put back things where you found them. It helps to work on one rocker at a time. Be careful you don't lose a rocker guide or the shim when removing the rocker. The are just sitting on there with nothing holding them down when the cam is out. It's really important the shim goes back where you found it. The check ball inside the HLA can be tricky to disengage. I didn't have the proper tool, so I used a large paperclip bent into an L shape to get at it. Refer to the FSM if you need more info on bleeding HLA's. Index of /FSM
    S62...huh?

  28. #68
    Endless Spinning
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    Maybe take EVERYTHING out of the head, not including the springs, bleed the HLA and reinstall everything correctly. If you still get the noise, maybe get a new engine.

    Time is $$

    -G
    '00 SE
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  29. #69
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    I will check if there is any lift on the rockers. Hopefully this is the issue.


    it definately sounds like its coming from one of the rockers thought, doesnt sound to much from the chain side, just sucks that this happened pretty much at the same time i had issues with the timing..i would assume that this is unusual.
    Last edited by bmexicang; 01-10-13 at 07:56 PM.

  30. #70
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    bled my hydraulic latch adjuster's (HLA) today, didnt have enough time to finish it up and get it started but i will tommorow after work.

    if this doesnt solve my issues, any suggestions? replace the head or whole motor?

  31. #71
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    so i got the car started today, and it is still making the same noise it was before. when i took it apart i did not see any damage on any of the rockers, guides, shims or HLAs, after i started it up it seems that the noise is coming from cylinder 2 or 3 on the intake side.

 

 
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