Thread: Cutting out issue is back

I had this problem once, it turned out that the engine *wasn't* actually cutting out, the tachometer was off, giving a lower reading than it actually was. This was in my '91 SE-R with most of the bolt ons except the JWT ECU, the tach would show like 6600 RPMS and cut out, when I was actually hitting the rev limiter at 7500 or 7700 rpms, whatever it is I forget. The problem showed up right after I put in JWT S3 cams, as if the tach was getting a poor reading and couldn't keep up or something. I had no solution other than put in an aftermarket tach.

I saw that Dan's tach does the same thing mine does, jumps above what it is actually revving at randomly. I will know that my tach does this when I'm idling and it's showing 2k rpm (and doesn't sound like it) or if I'm accelerating and the needle shows in red when I know my rev limiter is at 7,500. My cluster has 200k+ miles on it so it wouldn't surprise me if the cluster is malfunctioning slightly. Dan's issue however seems to actually be performance related because you can kind of tell where you are revving and if he is having a noticeable loss of performance at lower RPM's, his tach is probably relatively accurate. I also know on my cluster the RPM's read slightly inaccurate (usually 100-500RPM's off than what is reading off the window switch which has a tach signal coming straight off the ECU). Lucky for Dan he has Nistune and can do some data logging as well to see if he is randomly spiking AFR's or whatever may be the case, if it's all of a sudden and given the problem with the speedo cable on the back of the cluster, it's probably ECU related with some sort of signal not being right to/from the ECU

he changed the distributor and its still doing it.. long live frankendizzy!!!

Still getting knock sensor code? I haven't run anything lower than 91 in my VE but I imagine regular would cause it to ping and maybe cause a knock sensor code? I also just read last night that o2 sensors can cause bogging and idle issues if their not grounded correctly and on our SS headers, a solid ground is not made to the o2 bung, maybe try that? When did this start happening? Car was running fine then all of a sudden started doing this? Or was it after something was changed

Changed the dizzy, still doin it even though i dont have timing set, but to advanced it was still doing it, and at a neutral middle point i cant even drive her right now. Thissucks. Only thing i noticed when she was to advanced is when vvl kicks in, the msd doesnt lag anymore, it kicks right in, so dizzy was a problem....just not the problem causing this.

What else we thinking here....maf?......hell injectors? Im at a freaking loss, i cant drive it now due to this, i need to wait till my wife is home so i can get my 510 pulled out and charged up.

one mo fucking time....

its not the god damn knock sensor, all our cars have that.. i've seen dozens of our cars pull the knock sensor code.. thats not the problem!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Just all of a sudden it started, no issues then bam. She was running perfect before.


You know what...now that i think of it, this shit got worse the day after i put my wideband in...? but all that involved was hooking to a 12v switched power source, and putting a sensor in the bung.....and ive had wideband in before with no problem, and it looked like everything was still in there nice and tight.

Hey josh, you sure its not the tps hehe.

Like josh said im leaning towards maf.....its a n60 but was so clean, sucks if already going out, and i just sold my spares DOH! Or even nistune ecu is acting up? sigh if maf isnt it then im really at a loss.

our cars are so simple, a problem like this has got to be something stupid..

go "buy" a obd2 ecu from the junk yard for testing with dan.. well if the maf dont help..

you should be datalogging when this shit happens so i can go over the logs

I haven't had a knock sensor DTC since I've done my swap... What is nistune reading for knock count? What condition are the spark plugs in? What MAF are you running? Can you switch it out and tune it for the new MAF? Does it idle normally? Does the fuel pump sound like it's priming normally when you turn ignition on? My dad had a Lumina and you could hear it prime when the ignition was on but it was on it's way out and wouldn't sound normal and would randomly stall, that could be a problem. Can you run it long enough to do some logging in Nistune?