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  1. #1
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    Default Rev limit, Tomei Procams and oil burning (check #1 and #3)

    Hi,

    I've searched a lot, but still have doubts

    I own a Primera P11 GT (10:1 compression, blacktop) which currently has the following mechanical mods: SSAC 2.5 header, decat, 2.5" exhaust, AEM CAI, Fidanza flywheel and UR 2pc pulleys.

    I am about to buy Tomei Poncams (260mm, 11.20 both int and exh). My stock rev cut is at 7.3k rpm, but was planning to remap my ECU (damn OBDI, must try in a local tuner) and maybe increase the rev limit.

    An 8-8.2k limit would be good, since changing a bit before it I would still be in the good zone in the shorter gear.

    Of course, for doing that I must buy springs and retainers (was thinking in the Brian Crower kit, tho maybe it's not a good idea to mix brands).

    Taking that into account, should I buy the Procams instead of the Poncams? I suppose DET ones are ok, since it seems there is no specific Procam for the DE.

    I don't want a very lumpy idle! And going 270 deg, 11.5 lift that would be hard to get (though with the procams you can mix diff intake and exhaust cams, since they're sold individually)

    Summing up, which cams should I get? (don't tell me s3r's, lol) where would you put the rev limiter?

    Thanks a lot in advance, sr20 gurus
    Last edited by inbeesible; 10-11-10 at 01:21 AM. Reason: Completing the title

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    Post has been approved. Bumping this up since it's way down the list.
    00 G20t KH3- Loller Rocker + GT28 + 6 Speed
    05 Legacy GT - Big 16G @13psi + Up Pipe + Downpipe
    12 Outback 2.5i Premium - Stock

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    Thanks for approving and bumping it, Vadim.

    I've had time to think before this was approved, lol, maybe the Procams are not available for the RR?

    My car drinks a lot of oil lately (like 1/3 gallon each 500 miles). I was about to do a compression test.

    If all cilinders seem ok, then it will be probably due to the valve retainers (another good resason for changing springs+retainers). Do I have to change also valve guides?

    If compression test goes wrong (I hope it won't, car starts fine and no black smoke), problem would be probably caused by piston rings. Having to open the block, if I decided to spend such a lot of money, I would probably go with the sr16ve pistons+ rings route.

    Suming up this second post , are the sr16ve pistons a direct replacement for the RR DE ones? any modding needed?

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    TOMEI makes cams for RR engine. You dont need rev. limiter at 8k or so. RR is different engine than more revving highports. You are fine with stock rev. limiter (which is 7100rpm as i know, not 7300rpm). You dont want to rev a lot with stock valve springs anyway... Brian Crower dont make RR valve springs, i dont know about any brand who makes them. RR peaks around 6000rpm, so stock limiter is totally fine. Proven maky times.
    Get Poncams and be fine. About ECU - Nistune make boards for your car and it depens where you live, it can be tuned my local dealer or forum members.

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    ...
    Last edited by inbeesible; 10-11-10 at 06:10 PM.

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    Hi, jagy.

    Love your country. Prague is one of the most beautiful towns in the world!

    Stock peak is at 6100rpm and with all the bolt-ons it will be probably a bit higher. I'd like to put my rev-limiter at around 8-8.2k as I think the optimum shift point will be higher than 7k!

    I have several choices for RR cams: jwt s3r, tomei poncams, pipercams, cat cams (I've heard great things about these, some uk guy over there?)...

    And as, for the oil burning issue, I will buy springs+retainer kit (for either Tomei or BC), I definitely want to rev a lot

    Nistune type4 board is a pita to install in the p11 gt ecu, since the damn bosch unit has a stupid frame and needs an adapter and some work to fit it. I've contacted some local tuners and it will be expensive, but hope to get some good results.

    What do you think about installing sr16ve pistons? I think I will do it just if oil burnt is due to piston rings and I have to open the engine, changing valve guides and doing some work on the head at the same time.

    In that case, what approx compression would I have? 11.6? Does it depend on the cams? Cat cams has some 302 degrees cams! (tho I doubt they would be smooth at idle / ideal for a DD).

    Thanks a lot!

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    Those BABY cams will not make any power above 7k anyway.. hell I'd say you'll even see the power tailing off above 6.5k even.
    It's be a waste of you're time and money revving it more.
    If you want more revs, Forget the Tomei Poncams... Get yourself some Catcams (they make HUGE RR and non RR cams), and their own valve springs which work with the stock retainers. Certain cam profiles they offer will be more suited to 6k-9k if thats what you're after.
    Joe

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    Quote Originally Posted by inbeesible View Post
    Hi, jagy.

    Love your country. Prague is one of the most beautiful towns in the world!

    Stock peak is at 6100rpm and with all the bolt-ons it will be probably a bit higher. I'd like to put my rev-limiter at around 8-8.2k as I think the optimum shift point will be higher than 7k!

    I have several choices for RR cams: jwt s3r, tomei poncams, pipercams, cat cams (I've heard great things about these, some uk guy over there?)...

    And as, for the oil burning issue, I will buy springs+retainer kit (for either Tomei or BC), I definitely want to rev a lot

    Nistune type4 board is a pita to install in the p11 gt ecu, since the damn bosch unit has a stupid frame and needs an adapter and some work to fit it. I've contacted some local tuners and it will be expensive, but hope to get some good results.

    What do you think about installing sr16ve pistons? I think I will do it just if oil burnt is due to piston rings and I have to open the engine, changing valve guides and doing some work on the head at the same time.

    In that case, what approx compression would I have? 11.6? Does it depend on the cams? Cat cams has some 302 degrees cams! (tho I doubt they would be smooth at idle / ideal for a DD).

    Thanks a lot!
    Hi, yeah Prague is very nice, thanks.

    i saw a lot of dyno graphs and all peaked around 6k rpm, even with cams. If you want to rev high, rework you RR to using highport head parts (cams, springs, reatainers, etc.). Its cheap and you have better choice of cams, springs, etc. Or just get SR20VE if you want to rev that high.

    As i said before, i dont think BC makes RR springs, not sure about Tomei.

    I saw UK guys with Nistune boards in N15/P11 with no problems. If its problem for you, i can help you how to run P10 ecu with Nistune board, which will be probably cheaper to buy and tune. Im using is in one N15 SR20VE and one P11 SR20VE.

    SR16VE pistons are fine, it will make CR aroun 12-12.5:1 in your RR which is fine on 100RON fuel.

    Dynamic compression depends on your cams, static compression didnt. Friend has these big 302° cams in race Sunny GTi and he never worked out, how to set them and tune them properly. He had to use BC stg3 272° cams after that. For such a big cam, it has to be done much more to the engine.

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    Just FYI the "retainers" everyone talks about for the valve springs have nothing to do with oil sealing. Those are the "valve seals" that do the oil sealing. These are also different from "valve guides".

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    Quote Originally Posted by BenFenner View Post
    Just FYI the "retainers" everyone talks about for the valve springs have nothing to do with oil sealing. Those are the "valve seals" that do the oil sealing. These are also different from "valve guides".


    Thanks for the info, tho.

    Then, can't I solve the problem without removing the head? (it's clear that it has nothing to do with valve cover gasket, car burns it).

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    BC stage 2 cams (12.06mm lift / 264* duration) have peak power at 7100 RPM. I run them to a 7700 RPM red line.

    Just another option to consider.

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    There's no way of knowing if the oil consumption problem can be solved without removing the head until we know how the oil is getting into the combustion chamber.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Viprdude View Post
    BC stage 2 cams (12.06mm lift / 264* duration) have peak power at 7100 RPM. I run them to a 7700 RPM red line.

    Just another option to consider.
    It would be a good option, but RR here



    Quote Originally Posted by BenFenner View Post
    There's no way of knowing if the oil consumption problem can be solved without removing the head until we know how the oil is getting into the combustion chamber.
    My mechanical knowledges are limited, but I have no idea of how the oil is being burnt.

    If it were due to piston rings (must do a compression test for being sure), startup won't be as perfect as it's now.

    Besides that, I suppose smoke would be black sometimes. Also, probably car would be a bit slower (more than its usual slowness ) at low rpm...


    If it were caused by valve seals or valve guides, it would throw a lot of smoke when starting the car and also at idle. It doesn't do that, tho smelling the exhaust you can notice the oil fragrance...

    Also, when stopping it you can see sometimes drops falling of it (and it's not water condensation).

    I'm changing my oil (5w50 before, 10w40 since it started burning it) every 5 miles and, at this speed it will drink 6 liters apart from the 3,7 l in the initial change...
    Last edited by inbeesible; 10-19-10 at 12:14 PM.

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    Didn't see those two answers :S

    Quote Originally Posted by Shaggy_master View Post
    Those BABY cams will not make any power above 7k anyway.. hell I'd say you'll even see the power tailing off above 6.5k even.
    It's be a waste of you're time and money revving it more.
    If you want more revs, Forget the Tomei Poncams... Get yourself some Catcams (they make HUGE RR and non RR cams), and their own valve springs which work with the stock retainers. Certain cam profiles they offer will be more suited to 6k-9k if thats what you're after.
    Joe
    Any advice on Catcams models? I've looked for dynos or reviews of them in npoc.co.uk but couldn't find anyone.

    AlmeraNL will be using 1600520, but they seem pretty extreme (intake valve lift 474, exhaust valve lift 456, duration 305/298).

    Some intermediate choice? It seems there's no need for retainers with any catcams model (just pac-S90010 springs).

    Quote Originally Posted by jagy View Post

    I saw UK guys with Nistune boards in N15/P11 with no problems. If its problem for you, i can help you how to run P10 ecu with Nistune board, which will be probably cheaper to buy and tune. Im using is in one N15 SR20VE and one P11 SR20VE.

    SR16VE pistons are fine, it will make CR aroun 12-12.5:1 in your RR which is fine on 100RON fuel.

    Dynamic compression depends on your cams, static compression didnt. Friend has these big 302° cams in race Sunny GTi and he never worked out, how to set them and tune them properly. He had to use BC stg3 272° cams after that. For such a big cam, it has to be done much more to the engine.

    It would be interesting to contact those guys (send me a pm if you prefer it). Obviously, Nistune is the best choice and I bet there's a lot of custom bin's over there.

    Here maximum RON is 98 octanes (well, BP ultimate is around 99), so I'd need a lower compression.

    Regarding the cams, at this point I'm completely lost.

    Poncams are babies , Catcams are very hard to tune...

    I am looking for 185-200bhp (with the already installed 2.5 header and exhaust, no cat, AEM CAI, UR 2pc pulleys, Fidanza flywheel and the things to come: "putyourbrandhere" cams and maybe sr16ve pistons) in a driveable car

    VE route would be easier, but I tried once and it went wrong (scammed by TigerAuto) so I'm not in the mood of repeating that exhausting experience (waiting, abbusive customs, going to the port for picking up the engine...).
    Last edited by inbeesible; 10-14-10 at 02:16 PM.

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    It will be difficult to get to your goal with a DE unless you do some serious internal work.

    Change pistons, get some huge cams. And with doing that, you will sacrifice your idle or force to have your idle raised to ~1050-1100 RPM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by inbeesible View Post
    If it were due to piston rings (must do a compression test for being sure), startup won't be as perfect as it's now.
    That is not true. It could start and work very well and still have ring problems.



    You could have a crank case ventilation block that causes a lot of blow-by to be burnt up. Just another idea.

    Personally if then engine is going through that much oil, I'd be replacing the entire thing with a used one. But that's just me. =/

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    Quote Originally Posted by Viprdude View Post
    It will be difficult to get to your goal with a DE unless you do some serious internal work.

    Change pistons, get some huge cams. And with doing that, you will sacrifice your idle or force to have your idle raised to ~1050-1100 RPM.

    Sure? I was talking about bhp (edited the post for clarifying that). Around 160whp is what I want to get.

    Quote Originally Posted by BenFenner View Post
    That is not true. It could start and work very well and still have ring problems.



    You could have a crank case ventilation block that causes a lot of blow-by to be burnt up. Just another idea.

    Personally if then engine is going through that much oil, I'd be replacing the entire thing with a used one. But that's just me. =/

    You're depressing me

    Seriously, thanks a lot for the help. Will try to find out which is the root cause of that and then decide what to do with the engine.

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    Quote Originally Posted by inbeesible View Post
    Sure? I was talking about bhp (edited the post for clarifying that). Around 160whp is what I want to get.
    Ok, well 160 wheel hp with a 15% driveline loss factor is 184 crank hp.

    Around 175 wheel hp would get you to your 200 crank hp goals.

    But, now, that you clarified a little bit and set a goal of 160 wheel hp. It is easily obtainable.

    JWT makes S3R cams for a RR engine as well.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Viprdude View Post
    Ok, well 160 wheel hp with a 15% driveline loss factor is 184 crank hp.

    Around 175 wheel hp would get you to your 200 crank hp goals.

    But, now, that you clarified a little bit and set a goal of 160 wheel hp. It is easily obtainable.

    JWT makes S3R cams for a RR engine as well.

    It's hard to determine the loss factor, I tend to use 20% as reference.

    My first choice was between the s3r and the Poncams, but I've read better reviews of the Tomei ones.

    I also think my goal is "easily" obtainable. Even putting the rev limiter at 8000 rpm sounds reasonable to me (stock is at 7.3k, and most of the dyno charts I've seen increase the power peak from 6100 to around 6500).

    What do you think of using more extreme cams? They will be probably hard to tune (cam gears, dyno time which is überexpensive here...) and make the car even more "all on the top" with a horrible idle.

    Poncams are on the cart screaming "buy us buy us, you won't regret", but it's maybe a baby voice...

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    Where are you from?

    Im telling you again. It makes no sense to rev RR over stock rev. limiter. Believe me... you will not make any power there, it will cost you extra money for nothing. Everybody will tell you the same. Raised rev limiter to 7500rpm with Nistune will be just fine, but everyhing above will be very dangerous and non sense anyway.

    185-200HP isnt big problem.

    You will need:

    Header - done
    Exhaust - done
    Flywheel - done
    UR 2pcs set - done
    Bigger intake piping with velocity stack and JWT filter (AEM is only 2.5", get 3" which is much better)
    Cams - i can recommend JWT S3R
    Nistune to tune it

    My friend had Almera GTi with same engine.. he had header, exhaust, KN filter and JWT S3R cams and he made 175HP with stock ecu.

    With mods mentioned above you can hit 180HP on stock ECU. With SR16 pistons (98-99RON fuel is fine) and good tune you will be in 190-200HP range.

    I made 190HP in highport SR20DE with same/similar mods, basic tune (untuned) and stock 10:1 CR pistons.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jagy View Post
    Where are you from?

    Im telling you again. It makes no sense to rev RR over stock rev. limiter. Believe me... you will not make any power there, it will cost you extra money for nothing. Everybody will tell you the same. Raised rev limiter to 7500rpm with Nistune will be just fine, but everyhing above will be very dangerous and non sense anyway.

    185-200HP isnt big problem.

    You will need:

    Header - done
    Exhaust - done
    Flywheel - done
    UR 2pcs set - done
    Bigger intake piping with velocity stack and JWT filter (AEM is only 2.5", get 3" which is much better)
    Cams - i can recommend JWT S3R
    Nistune to tune it

    My friend had Almera GTi with same engine.. he had header, exhaust, KN filter and JWT S3R cams and he made 175HP with stock ecu.

    With mods mentioned above you can hit 180HP on stock ECU. With SR16 pistons (98-99RON fuel is fine) and good tune you will be in 190-200HP range.

    I made 190HP in highport SR20DE with same/similar mods, basic tune (untuned) and stock 10:1 CR pistons.

    Hi again!

    I'm from Spain.

    I trust you I definitely know I won't make power at 7500rpm, but as I'm gonna put springs and retainers with the cams I'd like to get benefit of that and increase the rev limit till 8k (from what I've read it seems the safe limit for the RR, correct me if I'm wrong).

    That coming along with a nistune/remap of the ecu (no extra money for just moving the limiter, it's an extra ).

    Probably I won't rev always till there, but look these pics:

    Currently, if I shift at:



    revs fall till:




    If I could go 700rpm further, they would fall at around 6.2k, power peak point. Maybe it's a stupid idea :S

    Anyway, thanks a lot for the info about bhp figures. Do you have some dyno graph?
    Last edited by inbeesible; 10-14-10 at 06:27 PM. Reason: adding pics

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    Quote Originally Posted by inbeesible View Post
    Hi again!

    I'm from Spain.

    I trust you I definitely know I won't make power at 7500rpm, but as I'm gonna put springs and retainers with the cams I'd like to get benefit of that and increase the rev limit till 8k (from what I've read it seems the safe limit for the RR, correct me if I'm wrong).

    That coming along with a nistune/remap of the ecu (no extra money for just moving the limiter, it's an extra ).

    Probably I won't rev always till there, but I like to shift and being again near to the power peak.

    Thanks a lot for the info about bhp figures. Do you have some dyno graph?
    Even if you make peak power at 6500rpm, its useless to rev over 7500rpm. Its physics, your car will be slower with overreving... if you want to be closer to your peak power after shift, get shorter gears in transmission. I was making 168HP at 7100rpm (highport engine, RR peak much sooner) with light mods and wasnt even revving that high. I was revving to around 7600-7700rpm at most. Just make no sense.. no power/torque there, car is slower.. and its not even good for your RR 4cw bottom end.
    If you do all the mods, you can dyno the car and you will see its non sense to rev there.

    Btw. did you fing anybody who makes springs/retainers for RR? I didnt found anybody.

    My thread: 10:1 CR DE with bolt-ons dyno

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    Quote Originally Posted by jagy View Post
    Even if you make peak power at 6500rpm, its useless to rev over 7500rpm. Its physics, your car will be slower with overreving... if you want to be closer to your peak power after shift, get shorter gears in transmission. I was making 168HP at 7100rpm (highport engine, RR peak much sooner) with light mods and wasnt even revving that high. I was revving to around 7600-7700rpm at most. Just make no sense.. no power/torque there, car is slower.. and its not even good for your RR 4cw bottom end.
    If you do all the mods, you can dyno the car and you will see its non sense to rev there.

    Btw. did you fing anybody who makes springs/retainers for RR? I didnt found anybody.

    My thread: 10:1 CR DE with bolt-ons dyno
    Interesting . I was about to say the same: once the mods are done will take it to the dyno and study the graph

    Are springs and retainers different between RR and non RR engines? Tomei list the same reference (173004) and also Catcams (PAC-S90010).

    I like your graph .

    Thanks for all the advices, very appreciated.

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    Quote Originally Posted by inbeesible View Post
    Didn't see those two answers :S



    Any advice on Catcams models? I've looked for dynos or reviews of them in npoc.co.uk but couldn't find anyone.

    AlmeraNL will be using 1600520, but they seem pretty extreme (intake valve lift 474, exhaust valve lift 456, duration 305/298).

    Some intermediate choice? It seems there's no need for retainers with any catcams model (just pac-S90010 springs).
    There isn't much info on the Catcams... A few guys on our forum are going for the 520 profile Catcams too, but who cares about dyno figures.. Just get some and make your own dyno figures.
    You won't find much information on NPOC, there's never many crazy engine builds going on on there.. Get yourself onto Almera Owners Club.. There's big DE and VE builds going on at the moment..
    I can tell you now... I would not bother with S3R's.... I had them in my fully bolted on DE, sold them recently, and the difference was hardly noticeable. They are too small. Hell, my Idle was still even smooth !
    As you said.. You don't need retainers with the Catcams.. Their own valve spring works with the standard retainer.
    I was gonna go with them, until I swapped to a Highport head as I bought some ITB's so now I'm Non Roller Rocker.
    And for the VE bum boys.... Here in the UK... The fastest SR20 N/A of all time.. Is still a DE....
    Joe

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    Quote Originally Posted by Shaggy_master View Post
    There isn't much info on the Catcams... A few guys on our forum are going for the 520 profile Catcams too, but who cares about dyno figures.. Just get some and make your own dyno figures.
    You won't find much information on NPOC, there's never many crazy engine builds going on on there.. Get yourself onto Almera Owners Club.. There's big DE and VE builds going on at the moment..
    I can tell you now... I would not bother with S3R's.... I had them in my fully bolted on DE, sold them recently, and the difference was hardly noticeable. They are too small. Hell, my Idle was still even smooth !
    As you said.. You don't need retainers with the Catcams.. Their own valve spring works with the standard retainer.
    You are convincing

    Unfortunately, interesting content on the AOC is just for members. In the free section I've just found some good reviews on the Poncams.

    It's weird most of the Catcams have those aggressive durations and relatively small lifts (lower than Poncams).

    I like these p/n:


    1600518

    INTAKE EXHAUST

    clearance [cl] 0.00mm 0.00mm
    duration [0.1mm+cl] 298° 289°
    duration [1.0mm+cl] 248° 240°
    valve lift [cl=0] 11.60mm 11.10mm
    cam lift 7.00mm 6.70mm
    peak angle 106° 106°
    timing [1.0mm+cl] 18/50° 46/14°
    lift at TDC [cl=0] 2.70mm 2.25mm




    1600516

    INTAKE EXHAUST

    clearance [cl] 0.00mm 0.00mm
    duration [0.1mm+cl] 289° 282°
    duration [1.0mm+cl] 240° 232°
    valve lift [cl=0] 11.10mm 10.60mm
    cam lift 6.70mm 6.40mm
    peak angle 108° 108°
    timing [1.0mm+cl] 12/48° 44/ 8°
    lift at TDC [cl=0] 2.00mm 1.65mm




    If you could find (or paste ) any review of them, that would be great. I'm afraid with such big degrees they lower a lot the dynamic compression and sr16ve pistons will be a must.

    I'd also prefer if they were a simple drop-in (like Tomeis), and these seem to need a lot of adjustment.

    I'd let you know what I decide

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    You can use aftermarket VE springs in your RR with no modification if you cant find any springs made specifically for the RR.

    Also, revving to 8k is perfectly fine on the RR bottom end, it's the top end that is iffy. (IE throwing rockers)
    95 200sx
    sr20ve

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    Quote Originally Posted by jer_760 View Post
    You can use aftermarket VE springs in your RR with no modification if you cant find any springs made specifically for the RR.

    Also, revving to 8k is perfectly fine on the RR bottom end, it's the top end that is iffy. (IE throwing rockers)
    Interesting, thanks for the info.

    I've heard 8k is the limit for the rockers.

    Knowing that, I've changed my mind again and won't buy springs/retainers unless I go with an aggressive cam (I mean, not with the Poncams).

    I need to decide now:

    Poncams: $515 shipped + customs fees = 560-650 usd (depending on how much customs want to steal me)

    Cat Cams (any model) : 615 usd shipped (+ $250 of the needed springs).

    Both options have pros and cons

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    Poncams are SMALL dude seriously....
    There's dudes on our forum running poncams with near 200hp though.. But they are stuck in the 15s 1/4 mile bracket ??? Do you really wanna do that after spending £££££??
    BTW catcams are not $615 they are £350 which is less than $500 man.
    Joe

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    Quote Originally Posted by Shaggy_master View Post
    BTW catcams are not $615 they are £350 which is less than $500 man.
    Joe
    Where? Take into account shipping costs to Spain.

    Cheaper site I've found is a German store but including shipping it comes near to what I've said.

    Spanish CatCams distributors are way more expensive.

    I've read you explaining the same argument in the AOC (quarter mile vs dyno figures). Obviously, I totally agree with you , but take into account this will be a daily driver (don't want to raise idle till 1600 rpm to keep it stable, it must pass MOT, have some power -not so much really - below 5000 rpm) and specially, I want them to make power without a lot of dyno tuning and also without increasing the compression by changing pistons (I will probably do it, but just in case).

    Will stock hydraulic lifters be ok with CatCams agressive camshafts?

    Good thing about the Poncams is that, in spite of having small durations, they have pretty high lifts (higher than Catcams 289/282).

    Thanks for the help, Almera's guys rock

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    JWT S3R are better than Poncams. Bigger lift and duration.

    jer_760: My point was, its not good for bottom end to rev to 8k with 4cw, lightweight pulley and flywheel. This been discussed before.

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    Quote Originally Posted by inbeesible View Post
    Where? Take into account shipping costs to Spain.

    Cheaper site I've found is a German store but including shipping it comes near to what I've said.

    Spanish CatCams distributors are way more expensive.

    I've read you explaining the same argument in the AOC (quarter mile vs dyno figures). Obviously, I totally agree with you , but take into account this will be a daily driver (don't want to raise idle till 1600 rpm to keep it stable, it must pass MOT, have some power -not so much really - below 5000 rpm) and specially, I want them to make power without a lot of dyno tuning and also without increasing the compression by changing pistons (I will probably do it, but just in case).

    Will stock hydraulic lifters be ok with CatCams agressive camshafts?

    Good thing about the Poncams is that, in spite of having small durations, they have pretty high lifts (higher than Catcams 289/282).

    Thanks for the help, Almera's guys rock
    Use the RR HLA's dude and you'll be fine.
    Lift is not that essential after a certain extent for N/A Motors.. Think about it, when the valve's open .500" say, having it open at that level for longer, has more effect than having it open more for a short duration.
    When choosing a cam the duration is vital.
    I wouldn't personally bother with S3R's again.. Or Poncams (even though they have produced ridiculous dyno figures over on AOC). Those kind of cams are for all bolt-on motors really, don't get me wrong I had fun in mine with all bolt ons, intake, header, exhaust, flywheel, pulleys, FPR and JWT S3R's, it was pretty good.. But going back to stock, wasn't a big downgrade TBH...
    Also this shit about revving a 4cw high with Fly & Pulley being bad.. Well we'll see about that.. Mine's been knife edged & properly balanced, and I'm using the highport mains girdle for strength, I'm confident the 4cw could be good for high revs if the proper precautions are taken.
    Joe

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    Quote Originally Posted by Shaggy_master View Post
    Also this shit about revving a 4cw high with Fly & Pulley being bad
    Sh*t? Are you serious? Im done here...
    Last edited by jagy; 10-16-10 at 07:13 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jagy View Post
    Sh*t? Are you serious? Im done here...
    Well whats the problem.. if its properly balanced why would there be an issue?
    The 4cw is balanced just as well as the 8cw from the factory.
    Joe

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    Quote Originally Posted by jagy View Post
    JWT S3R are better than Poncams. Bigger lift and duration.

    jer_760: My point was, its not good for bottom end to rev to 8k with 4cw, lightweight pulley and flywheel. This been discussed before.
    I know it's been discussed many of times, and my opinion on the matter will never change. I have had my ve with a lightweight flywheel and pulleys revving to 8k-9k for almost 5 years and over 120,000 miles, plus the 40k-60k miles it had on it when it was pulled for the importer. Bearings still look great.

    Don't go off of what you "hear", go off of actual experience....hands on experience.
    95 200sx
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    Precisely.... Cheers dude.
    Joe

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    Quote Originally Posted by Shaggy_master View Post
    Precisely.... Cheers dude.
    Joe
    I'm going to buy the Catcams 1600516 (or 518, lol) influenced by you, so let's hope they will be good

    I know retainers are not needed, but would you change them once you change the springs? (I read you asking in AOC, did you install the BC retainers finally? DE or VE ones?).

    Best price I got for the cams+springs is 814 usd shipped, any online uk shop a bit cheaper?

    Looking for dynos of "extreme" cams in a DE, I found a thread in the AU Pulsar group (Vumnoo's N/A sr20de build up (on the cheap) PICS) where a Pulsar with jwt c2 cams and very slight mods did good numbers (150whp):


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    Do you have anybody who know how to (re)build the SR20 engine? How to set cam gears? How to tune it? I hope you will not end up like a lot of guys who started with big projects that cant handle them.
    If you make easy setup with boltons, you can always upgrade plus you will learn something. It does not work well backwards.

    SR20DE RR 175HP (~150whp)

    - JWT S3R cams
    - SSAC header
    - 2.25" exhaust
    - K&N filter
    - stock ECU, flywheel, pullies, etc.


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    Quote Originally Posted by inbeesible View Post
    I know retainers are not needed, but would you change them once you change the springs? (I read you asking in AOC, did you install the BC retainers finally? DE or VE ones?).

    Best price I got for the cams+springs is 814 usd shipped, any online uk shop a bit cheaper?
    I'm using BC +.5mm Valves, BC Valve Springs and Titanium Retainers yeah dude.. Not taking any risks really as I'm going to 9000 RPM hopefully.

    On the cams.... I know for a fact I can get Catcams for around £400 delivered to my door.. It might be slightly more, say £450 max, here in the UK.. If you want me to order them and ship them out to you to save you some money, I don't mind doing that at all dude.. PM me yeah?
    Joe

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    Quote Originally Posted by jagy View Post
    Do you have anybody who know how to (re)build the SR20 engine? How to set cam gears? How to tune it? I hope you will not end up like a lot of guys who started with big projects that cant handle them.
    Yes, thanks for worrying about me

    Although he is more focused on modifying PSA rally cars, my mechanic also knows well the SR20 engine.

    My "project" is not specially ambitious, so let's all hope I can handle it


    Quote Originally Posted by Shaggy_master
    On the cams.... I know for a fact I can get Catcams for around £400 delivered to my door.. It might be slightly more, say £450 max, here in the UK.. If you want me to order them and ship them out to you to save you some money, I don't mind doing that at all dude.. PM me yeah?
    You said 350 pounds! Lol, will PM you later, thanks a lot

 

 
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