Welcome to the SR20 Community Forum - The Dash.
Register
SR20 forum logo

Thread: Rev limit, Tomei Procams and oil burning (check #1 and #3)

+ Reply To Thread
Posts: 11-20 of 41
2010-10-14 16:47:24
#11
Originally Posted by BenFenner
Just FYI the "retainers" everyone talks about for the valve springs have nothing to do with oil sealing. Those are the "valve seals" that do the oil sealing. These are also different from "valve guides".




Thanks for the info, tho.

Then, can't I solve the problem without removing the head? (it's clear that it has nothing to do with valve cover gasket, car burns it).
2010-10-14 16:56:29
#12
BC stage 2 cams (12.06mm lift / 264* duration) have peak power at 7100 RPM. I run them to a 7700 RPM red line.

Just another option to consider.
2010-10-14 17:03:59
#13
There's no way of knowing if the oil consumption problem can be solved without removing the head until we know how the oil is getting into the combustion chamber.
2010-10-14 17:33:54
#14
Originally Posted by Viprdude
BC stage 2 cams (12.06mm lift / 264* duration) have peak power at 7100 RPM. I run them to a 7700 RPM red line.

Just another option to consider.


It would be a good option, but RR here



Originally Posted by BenFenner
There's no way of knowing if the oil consumption problem can be solved without removing the head until we know how the oil is getting into the combustion chamber.


My mechanical knowledges are limited, but I have no idea of how the oil is being burnt.

If it were due to piston rings (must do a compression test for being sure), startup won't be as perfect as it's now.

Besides that, I suppose smoke would be black sometimes. Also, probably car would be a bit slower (more than its usual slowness ) at low rpm...


If it were caused by valve seals or valve guides, it would throw a lot of smoke when starting the car and also at idle. It doesn't do that, tho smelling the exhaust you can notice the oil fragrance...

Also, when stopping it you can see sometimes drops falling of it (and it's not water condensation).

I'm changing my oil (5w50 before, 10w40 since it started burning it) every 5 miles and, at this speed it will drink 6 liters apart from the 3,7 l in the initial change...
2010-10-14 18:07:38
#15
Didn't see those two answers :S

Originally Posted by Shaggy_master
Those BABY cams will not make any power above 7k anyway.. hell I'd say you'll even see the power tailing off above 6.5k even.
It's be a waste of you're time and money revving it more.
If you want more revs, Forget the Tomei Poncams... Get yourself some Catcams (they make HUGE RR and non RR cams), and their own valve springs which work with the stock retainers. Certain cam profiles they offer will be more suited to 6k-9k if thats what you're after.
Joe


Any advice on Catcams models? I've looked for dynos or reviews of them in npoc.co.uk but couldn't find anyone.

AlmeraNL will be using 1600520, but they seem pretty extreme (intake valve lift 474, exhaust valve lift 456, duration 305/298).

Some intermediate choice? It seems there's no need for retainers with any catcams model (just pac-S90010 springs).

Originally Posted by jagy


I saw UK guys with Nistune boards in N15/P11 with no problems. If its problem for you, i can help you how to run P10 ecu with Nistune board, which will be probably cheaper to buy and tune. Im using is in one N15 SR20VE and one P11 SR20VE.

SR16VE pistons are fine, it will make CR aroun 12-12.5:1 in your RR which is fine on 100RON fuel.

Dynamic compression depends on your cams, static compression didnt. Friend has these big 302° cams in race Sunny GTi and he never worked out, how to set them and tune them properly. He had to use BC stg3 272° cams after that. For such a big cam, it has to be done much more to the engine.



It would be interesting to contact those guys (send me a pm if you prefer it). Obviously, Nistune is the best choice and I bet there's a lot of custom bin's over there.

Here maximum RON is 98 octanes (well, BP ultimate is around 99), so I'd need a lower compression.

Regarding the cams, at this point I'm completely lost.

Poncams are babies , Catcams are very hard to tune...

I am looking for 185-200bhp (with the already installed 2.5 header and exhaust, no cat, AEM CAI, UR 2pc pulleys, Fidanza flywheel and the things to come: "putyourbrandhere" cams and maybe sr16ve pistons) in a driveable car

VE route would be easier, but I tried once and it went wrong (scammed by TigerAuto) so I'm not in the mood of repeating that exhausting experience (waiting, abbusive customs, going to the port for picking up the engine...).
2010-10-14 18:09:25
#16
It will be difficult to get to your goal with a DE unless you do some serious internal work.

Change pistons, get some huge cams. And with doing that, you will sacrifice your idle or force to have your idle raised to ~1050-1100 RPM.
2010-10-14 18:14:12
#17
Originally Posted by inbeesible
If it were due to piston rings (must do a compression test for being sure), startup won't be as perfect as it's now.
That is not true. It could start and work very well and still have ring problems.



You could have a crank case ventilation block that causes a lot of blow-by to be burnt up. Just another idea.

Personally if then engine is going through that much oil, I'd be replacing the entire thing with a used one. But that's just me. =/
2010-10-14 18:26:11
#18
Originally Posted by Viprdude
It will be difficult to get to your goal with a DE unless you do some serious internal work.

Change pistons, get some huge cams. And with doing that, you will sacrifice your idle or force to have your idle raised to ~1050-1100 RPM.



Sure? I was talking about bhp (edited the post for clarifying that). Around 160whp is what I want to get.

Originally Posted by BenFenner
That is not true. It could start and work very well and still have ring problems.



You could have a crank case ventilation block that causes a lot of blow-by to be burnt up. Just another idea.

Personally if then engine is going through that much oil, I'd be replacing the entire thing with a used one. But that's just me. =/



You're depressing me

Seriously, thanks a lot for the help. Will try to find out which is the root cause of that and then decide what to do with the engine.
2010-10-14 18:30:48
#19
Originally Posted by inbeesible
Sure? I was talking about bhp (edited the post for clarifying that). Around 160whp is what I want to get.


Ok, well 160 wheel hp with a 15% driveline loss factor is 184 crank hp.

Around 175 wheel hp would get you to your 200 crank hp goals.

But, now, that you clarified a little bit and set a goal of 160 wheel hp. It is easily obtainable.

JWT makes S3R cams for a RR engine as well.
2010-10-14 18:38:36
#20
Originally Posted by Viprdude
Ok, well 160 wheel hp with a 15% driveline loss factor is 184 crank hp.

Around 175 wheel hp would get you to your 200 crank hp goals.

But, now, that you clarified a little bit and set a goal of 160 wheel hp. It is easily obtainable.

JWT makes S3R cams for a RR engine as well.



It's hard to determine the loss factor, I tend to use 20% as reference.

My first choice was between the s3r and the Poncams, but I've read better reviews of the Tomei ones.

I also think my goal is "easily" obtainable. Even putting the rev limiter at 8000 rpm sounds reasonable to me (stock is at 7.3k, and most of the dyno charts I've seen increase the power peak from 6100 to around 6500).

What do you think of using more extreme cams? They will be probably hard to tune (cam gears, dyno time which is überexpensive here...) and make the car even more "all on the top" with a horrible idle.

Poncams are on the cart screaming "buy us buy us, you won't regret", but it's maybe a baby voice...
+ Reply To Thread
  • [Type to search users.]
  • Quick Reply
    Thread Information
    There are currently ? users browsing this thread. (? members & ? guests)
    StubUserName

    Back to top