Thread: HOW TO: Change Timing Chain Tensioner

Now this write up is for a Highport DE, I dont know the location of the oil filter and stuff on the low port incase it is different.

*****WHAT YOU NEED*****
1: 1998 - 2001 SR20DE Timing chain tensioner (New Style)
2: RTV or similar sealant

*****HOW TO DO IT*****

1: Remove Valve cover like normal

2: Remove oil filter, You will lose a little oil if your like me and did it just after a oil change and didnt want to drop it and put it back in

3: Zip tie the timing chain to the sprockets, I dont have a picture but on the rearmost one I did it at 10 and 12 o'clock, on the forward one I did it at 12 and 2 o'clock

4: Now your looking for this in the back of the block:


You can see where it is because the oil filter stub is in the picture. It is 10mm. Now your going to have a problem getting it off. You have to twist and move it in alot of directions. Once its out this is what youve got:




Now you can see it is a Heavy Duty Piece of machinery. The new one looks taller then the original because it has a fatter bottom:



5: Compress the new one if it isnt already compressed some already are compressed.. mine wasnt. I used a vice cause it is very very difficult. Practice on the old one first so u dont do it wrong.
This is what it should look like:



You can see how once compressed you attach the hook and its ready for reinstall.

6: On the location where you pulled it out, there is a metal gasket, I reused the old one and put some RTV on it and called it a day.
***MAKE SURE ARROW IS POINTING TO FRONT OF ENGINE***
There is a cast-in arrow as you can see in the lower photo. It has to be pointing to the front of the motor (timing chain cover) You can look at the original one if you dont believe me. lol:


7: Once its back in (easier then taking it out because it is compressed) bolt it in. Now its suppose to pop back out once installed, well it didnt happen for me so just take a mallet and a flat head and carefully knock the hook off. Its easy to spot when looking down the timing chain hole

8: Bolt it all back up and let idle


Now I know I read somewhere your suppose to turn the sprockets to load it with oil or something, i didnt see it till after I did the install, so I didnt do it. If someone can write what needs to be done with that step ill gladly include it in the write up.

Now mine made alot of noise when I first started it up, so I removed the upper guide and called it a day.
Let me know if I left anything out or if you need more info.

More Info From Member Coheed:
"I always use a small flat-head and my muscles to push the old one down. The ratcheting is pretty simple to figure it out. After the tensioner is put in you can crank the engine by hand on the crank pulley and hear the tensioner "click" while it adjusts the tension. After that, you can start her up and you are done. No need to hit the hook off"

Also on a RR engine no need to remove oil filter

I've been needing to do this for forever! This couldn't have come at a better time. Thanks.

Its fairly simple. Id recommend it if you are changing your valve cover gasket and whatnot. Its a easy 1-2-3 process, just make sure you zip tie the chain so theres no chance of it coming off.

Is it much different with a RR?

I dont know, Im new too the SR engine... I believe they are all the same.

Same process except you wont have to remove your oil filter.

The oil filter is relocated to the bottom of the engine by the ps pump.

I always use a small flat-head and my muscles to push the old one down. The ratcheting is pretty simple to figure it out. After the tensioner is put in you can crank the engine by hand on the crank pulley and hear the tensioner "click" while it adjusts the tension. After that, you can start her up and you are done. No need to hit the hook off.

Moved to the How TO Section.

You don't really need RTV if you have your gasket and it's in good shape

Added the info. Thanks

Also there was RTV on the gasket stock, so I removed the old stuff and put new stuff on.

Just wanted to share some more info on this matter.

It was very common in local forum to discuss the engine knocking reason from the first morning start. Most of the people were looking for the answer in the oil filter (including me).
It is no secret that the white SR20 UK oil filters are really $***ty. I am sorry to lost the pictures of an experiment we did - there was a white/black UK filter compared to Japan white/blue filter - both cut. The UK filter had no rubber valves inside, while the Japan one had one or two, I don't really remember.

The luck of valves in the filter lets the oil drain out of it. And then it takes time to get the oil way back from the oil pan. It does make sense, but such theory is also kind of weak.

The main reason for that knocking is really the timing chain tensioner. It takes really few minutes to change it and it makes huge difference.
IMO - the gasket could be reused if in good shape. It is a metal gasket. Same thing with the thermoblok spacers - they also reuse the metal gaskets. OK, one is oil and other air, but still - same point.

There should be also another benefit out of that change, besides the knocking issue. The newer model tensioner has much smaller teeth than the older one. This provides you with smaller and more precised step of the tensioner. Most timing chains got loosen after 50-60k miles. When I say loosen, I don't mean inches of course. This new tensioner should keep your chain really tight which I doubt makes no sense to explain why is considered good

p.s. Spec-v Wannabe >>> nice pictures