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  1. #1
    SR20 Newbie
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    Join Date: Dec 2011
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    Default Timing or 50 shot dry

    Well my girlfriend had a good point as I was telling her about my plans for a 100+ direct port wet shot. She pointed out that I have a Zex dry kit just sitting in the garage and why not run that first then decide what size wet shot to run. Can't really argue that, hahaha.
    Anyways, for a 50 shot you can generally leave the timing alone or maybe retard by 1 degree. My question comes because I currently run 19* advance on the local 91 octane with a little of my own mix added to the tank for the motor without any spray.
    So ... I was wondering what you guys typically run for advance with a little (50-75) dry shot. Should I be -1* from stock timing (yuck) or -1* from my currently set highly advanced timing? (stock is 15* iirc but don't quote me)
    Already checked the "101's" and "How to's". They don't speak in regards to timing that already cranked up. I appreciate the input guys :-)

  2. #2
    ETPerformance
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    Join Date: Jan 2010
    Location: FL
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    Set it to 14* to be safe. I cant really help you because i have never ran anything beside 93 oct
    Need a tune? Contact me, I offer Dyno, Street, Remote, E-Tunes and base maps. I work with Calum, Nistune, Nismotronic, AEM, Haltech, Crome, Hondata, E-Manage, TunerPro and can work in other programs as needed. I can also burn chips and ship them as needed.
    ETPerformance772@gmail.com or PM

  3. #3
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    Default

    I'm at about 93 with the additives. All the way down to 14* ? That will put a major damper on off spray performance :-/

  4. #4
    ETPerformance
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    each * of timing is = to roughly 3whp. Is the 15hp lost from timing retardation really worth replacing your motor?

    With nitrous you always want to work your way up slowly, especially if your new to it.

    The only DE i have owned and sprayed was a prity lethal mix but did fine. It was a JDM highport DE,19* of timing on a 70shot, using bkr7e sprark plugs happed at .22 and 10.2 afr
    .
    Need a tune? Contact me, I offer Dyno, Street, Remote, E-Tunes and base maps. I work with Calum, Nistune, Nismotronic, AEM, Haltech, Crome, Hondata, E-Manage, TunerPro and can work in other programs as needed. I can also burn chips and ship them as needed.
    ETPerformance772@gmail.com or PM

  5. #5
    SR20 Newbie
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    Hmmm, iirc the jdm highport has .5 points higher compression then my own motor. That's an exceptionally tight gap. 3 turbo cars and none of them are gapped that tight. With AFRs in the low 10's you'd be blowing flames out the rear and being robbed of power.
    But ... After reading that ... I'm pretty confident I cant get away with 15-17* with 1 step colder plugs and maybe a slight fuel enrichment. I'll just initially check the plugs every time I spray until I'm confident she's burning alright.

  6. #6
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    Join Date: Dec 2007
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    General rule of thumb is retard 2* for every 50 shot AT the point of knock.

    If you look at a DE timing map, even at 17* of base timing you are not going to need to retard timing for a 50 shot.
    Tired..of the bullshit.

  7. #7
    SR20VETeran
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    Location: Copperas Cove, Tx
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    Yeah, you would be just fine leaving timing at stock 15 deg or even advancing it to 17 deg base like Jamie said. DE's timing map is very very conservative which is why you usually see pretty good gains just from going from 15-19* base timing even with stock cams. On 93 octane I felt gains all the way up to 21* base timing.

    So in other words throw that 50 shot on there and be good to go. Im not much for dry shot kits but on a small 50 shot you should be just fine.
    1992 Nissan Sentra SE-R - Fully Built SR20VE, BWS400SX Billet 67mm and much more
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