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#1 (permalink) | ||
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TDY in JerZee
* Forum Supporter *
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Okay guys, I need to start prepping safety equipment for the car, as the track that's being finished up is going to follow NHRA ET guidelines.
In a nutshell, I got the whole Helmet requirement, and Roll bar/cage requirement, but I'm not 100% sure on the other equipment requirements... First, what ET's are REQUIRED to have fire suppression clothing? Jacket/pants/gloves/etc? I know that obviously you're not allowed to run with shorts/open toed shoes and whatnot, but I need to know ET's to follow for fire clothing. So far I'm pretty sure I'm going to need a helmet, and a roll bar. Other things like fire extinguisher, extended wheel studs for slicks, open lug nuts to verify extended studs, etc. etc. etc. Help me out here ppl Don't wanna get pissed on by the techs at the track and not be allowed to run the car.
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SR20DEEP in TX Quote:
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98 SE-R PssSsSSSshhhHhHhTtTTTtTtt!
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#2 (permalink) |
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Misses the drag strip
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How fast are you planning on running? I know there's a site somewhere with all the rules listed I'll see if I can find it for you.
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http://phatboyaudioonline.com/ 1993 NX2000-5SPD SWAP, 2120lbs. JDM Motor, Calumsult Realtime ECU, Brian Crower STG 3 cams/adj gears, CP XTP 9.2:1 pistons, NX DP-100 shot, Prothane Mounts, ACT Xtreme/6-puck disc, PR CAI with JWT POP, 2.5" SSAC, Dynomax 3" muffler, Outlaw Intake Spacers, OEM wires with ngk plugs, UR Pulleys, Walbro 190, ST springs with KYB's, Xstatic Batcap, Axis maglites |
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#3 (permalink) |
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4-door sr action
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13.99
NHRA requires a DOT, SNELL or SFI helmet for any car quicker than 14.00. There are a number of different specs so you should check with your local tech inspector. For cars that run e.t.’s between 12.00 and 13.99, all of the above requirements apply along with the addition of a driveshaft loop. A new-for-’95 rule exempts cars running 13.00 and slower when equipped with street tires. Since traction is the key to going quick, this places more strain on the driveshaft. To prevent the driveshaft from breaking at the front U-joint area and perhaps coming into the interior of the car, or digging into the track and pole-vaulting the car, NHRA mandates that a steel loop be placed just behind the front U-joint of the driveshaft. A universal driveshaft loop is available from Lakewood that bolts to the floorpan. A rollbar is required in this e.t. bracket only if the car is a convertible. 11.99 By the time a car is capable of running between 11.00 and 11.99 seconds in the quarter-mile, safety requirements are especially important. Up until this point, factory seatbelts are acceptable, but in the 11-second-and-quicker time zone you need a quality safety harness. The minimum requirement is a 3-inch-wide, five-point harness meeting SFI spec 16.1. The 1995 National Hot Rod Association Rulebook outlines the proper way to mount the shoulder harness and belts. An NHRA-legal rollbar is also required in the category. Recent rule changes have reconfigured what NHRA classifies as a rollbar. The classic four-point bar is no longer acceptable. The new standard is mild-steel tubing of at least .120-inch wall thickness (most chassis companies, like Art Morrison, use .134-inch wall tubing) that includes a forward-running side bar from the main hoop past the driver’s shoulder. This bar is only required on the driver’s side, but most systems include both sides for a six-point rollbar. An SFI-approved scattershield is also necessary in this e.t. category. NHRA requires the scattershield to have an SFI aluminum-foil sticker. According to Red Roberts of McLeod Industries, older bellhousings can be certified by sending the scattershield and block plate to the original manufacturer. The company will inspect the housing and if it passes, it will receive an SFI 6-1 certification. Most SFI certifications are good for five years. Contact your manufacturer if you’re not sure. The clutch and flywheel must also be SFI certified. The main consideration in this area is to avoid using a cast-iron flywheel. According to Roberts, sometime in the mid-’70s most of the new car companies began using nodular iron flywheels that are much safer. Most, if not all, current high-performance aluminum and steel flywheels are safe when used in conjunction with an approved scattershield, but the rules state that the pressure plate and flywheel need an SFI certification number. Roberts says the best plan is to record all your SFI numbers in a logbook. This makes it easier for the tech inspector and it shows the inspector that you understand the importance of the inspection process. This e.t. level also requires steel valve stems in all wheels, along with arm restraints for open-****pit cars like roadsters. 10.99 Cars running between 10.00 and 10.99 need all the above-mentioned safety equipment, plus driver’s protective clothing, aftermarket axles and an SFI-approved harmonic balancer. The driver needs to have at least a single-layer, SFI-approved jacket such as those sold by companies like Diest, Simpson, RJR and others, as well as long pants and approved driver’s gloves. The aftermarket axle requirement also extends to installing a C-clip eliminator kit in any rearend that uses a C-clip to retain the rear axle, such as the GM 10- and 12-bolts and the Ford 8.8-inch rearends. While the current NHRA axle rule does not include an SFI spec for axles, experienced axle manufacturers such as Summers Brothers, Mark Williams, Strange and others offer axles intended for this kind of abuse. Harmonic balancers first became a subject of concern on blown cars that placed enormous loads on the balancer driving the supercharger. Now, any car running quicker than 10.99 needs an SFI-approved harmonic balancer to be legal. Companies like Vibratech, TCI, BHJ and others can supply the necessary legal part. A new NHRA safety rule change for 1995 states that cars running between 10.00 and 10.99 must have a rollcage unless the car has an unaltered firewall, floorpan and body (except for wheeltubs). This means if you have a street car with a stock floorpan and firewall but have tubbed it for bigger tires, all you need is a five-point rollbar until the car runs quicker than 10.00. Of course, a rollcage is perfectly acceptable if you wish to install one. 9.99 Now we’re into the really quick cars, those running from 9.00 to 9.99 seconds in the quarter. These cars are blazingly fast and capable of speeds approaching 150 mph. Significant improvements must be made to the car in order to step into the 9-second zone. Foremost among these is a rollcage. The cage must be constructed of mild-steel tubing at least 15/8 inch in diameter, with .120-inch wall thickness. It can also be chrome-moly tubing of .083-inch wall thickness with a total of eight attachment points. These eight points refer to the placement of the cage surrounding the driver, including the two rear support bars. NHRA does not require bars that run forward to the front suspension, although many cage designs include them. All cars running 9.99 or quicker must have the cage certified by NHRA and have the NHRA certification sticker attached to the cage. Attached to the cage is a window net to keep the driver’s arms inside the car. The driver must also wear a neck collar and fireproof clothing meeting an SFI spec. Additional requirements include an NHRA competition license, an external electrical shutoff and a flexplate/automatic transmission shield. If your car can run over 150 mph in the quarter, as many of these cars do, then NHRA also requires a parachute to help slow the car down. Now that we’ve primed the pump, your best bet is to obtain a 1995 NHRA Rulebook for $10 and carefully read the E.T. Bracket General Regulations section. The Rulebook specifies exactly what will be required depending upon your car’s e.t. capability. Drag racing with fast street cars is tons of fun. It’s even better when you do it safely. obviously alot of that doesn't apply to you being fwd but this is pretty much what it is what kinda times are you looking to run? most nhra tracks i've gone to as long as your not hitting 11's you really just need the helmet
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www.ohionissans.com "moderator" www.740racing.com "moderator" 92' 4-door sentra XE-R hardcore sleeper action sr20det s13 to s13 harness service $60 |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Fo' Do's Mo Ho's :)
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Awesome post, maybe sticky?
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'Whore-hey' 1991 G20- Very Slow R.I.P. Danilo Got time to kill?--->http://www.trukz.com/ |
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#5 (permalink) | |
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Misses the drag strip
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Quote:
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http://phatboyaudioonline.com/ 1993 NX2000-5SPD SWAP, 2120lbs. JDM Motor, Calumsult Realtime ECU, Brian Crower STG 3 cams/adj gears, CP XTP 9.2:1 pistons, NX DP-100 shot, Prothane Mounts, ACT Xtreme/6-puck disc, PR CAI with JWT POP, 2.5" SSAC, Dynomax 3" muffler, Outlaw Intake Spacers, OEM wires with ngk plugs, UR Pulleys, Walbro 190, ST springs with KYB's, Xstatic Batcap, Axis maglites |
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#6 (permalink) | ||
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TDY in JerZee
* Forum Supporter *
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Yeah, ****ty. Looks like I'll be sandbaggin', or buying harnesses and seats, etc.
I'm wanting this car to be more than capable of 11's, or even 10's down the road. Don't know what I plan on hitting out there, because I haven't built her up yet ![]() Just don't want any surprises...
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SR20DEEP in TX Quote:
Quote:
98 SE-R PssSsSSSshhhHhHhTtTTTtTtt!
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#7 (permalink) |
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Misses the drag strip
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Oh I see. I'm hoping for mid 11's in mine. It'd be close to high 11's already I think. I got it down to 7.9@92 mph in the 1/8th with the stock motor. Now with pistons/cams etc and HOPEFULLY tuning lol it should get faster. Then I'll add more nitrous lol.
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http://phatboyaudioonline.com/ 1993 NX2000-5SPD SWAP, 2120lbs. JDM Motor, Calumsult Realtime ECU, Brian Crower STG 3 cams/adj gears, CP XTP 9.2:1 pistons, NX DP-100 shot, Prothane Mounts, ACT Xtreme/6-puck disc, PR CAI with JWT POP, 2.5" SSAC, Dynomax 3" muffler, Outlaw Intake Spacers, OEM wires with ngk plugs, UR Pulleys, Walbro 190, ST springs with KYB's, Xstatic Batcap, Axis maglites |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Vision has a price.
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Also, if you run an aftermarket power adder such as NOS or an aftermarket turbo setup you have to wear a Fire Jacket. In addition, if you have your battery re-located to the trunk you have to have an alternator/battery kill switch that will kill the car when triped. Also, if you are running NOS and the bottle is mounted in an area that adjoins the passenger compartment i.e. the trunk, you must have a blowdown tube installed that vents to the outside of the vehicle. I think that these rules are a bit on the extreme side, but I'm sure they are there for a reason. They are new as of last year.
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92 Sentra GTiR - The car nissan should have made! 12.9 @ 111 - 13psi Life is Hard, it's harder if you're Stupid! |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Member
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it also just depends on the track officials. the last time we went to ATL dragway my friends were told they could not run quicker than 14's b/c one of the helmets was not Snell approved and the other was Snell approved but older than 10 years. they sandbagged it off the line for half the night and the other half gave it all. both were nearly in the 12's by the end of the night and were never thrown off the track. this post is assuming you are just wanting to go to a test n tune as i'm sure the track workers would be more strict during a race.
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#10 (permalink) | ||
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TDY in JerZee
* Forum Supporter *
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Yeah, technically all runs will be T&T runs, apparently. Word is now that the track may not receive sanctioning, but it's not set in stone, yet. There are still improvements required for it to even be recognised as a possible track to be sanctioned.
From what I've heard, doesn't sound like many have been kicked off of the track yet. No inspection crew either... Typical. I guess they were just trying to scare all the ricer kiddies to stay at home? IIRC, they should have the ricer kiddies there too, instead of street racing.
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SR20DEEP in TX Quote:
Quote:
98 SE-R PssSsSSSshhhHhHhTtTTTtTtt!
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#11 (permalink) |
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Member
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local 1/8 here doesn't inspect either. but if you run a mph/time quick enough the owner thinks you need a roll bar, he will not let you run again until then. the only "inspection rules" they have there are you have to be wearing some type of helmet and a seatbelt.
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#12 (permalink) | |
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Clean B13
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My 1/8 mile times are in the mid to hi 7's and i ran 11.94 in the 1/4 with a bad 60' time, so your very close. |
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