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  1. #1
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    Default Battery dead - fusible link?

    Mainly this is for informational purposes as it took me a few hours to figure out and I have seen a good number of posts wondering how to order this fusible link part. The fusible link connects to the red "break out" connector on the positive battery cable. PN 24022-F6100 (replaces 24022-42L00 & 24022-65E00); confirmed to work on my 1992 SE-R

    Backstory: I do not drive my 1992 SE-R very much but do try to start every few weeks and drive it around the neighborhood. I came out to do so and the car was dead. I thought maybe it has been long enough that the battery needs a charge. I hook up the battery charger for a couple hours, switch to jump start, no-go. I remember finding some random plastic bits in the driver's foot well and also as I was going inside toward the end of charging session I notice the brake lights are lit. Research finally leads me to find that the little rubber bumper pads that depress the brake switch plungers account for the plastic bits found. With those now gone the brake lights are now constantly on; this accounts for the completely drained battery. I ordered up new replacement pedal bumpers and get my battery replaced at big box store (~6 months old). The car fired right up and I let it idle for about five minutes. Then shut the car off to grab my wallet and lock up the house so I could take it for a run around town. I turn the key and I hear something like a fuse or relay shut down power. Nothing is lit on the dash, no radio, no crank; zero power to anything...great! I check all the fuses in the cabin, as well as the fuses/fusible links/relays in the engine bay. Everything appears okay. I start fiddling with the fusible link at the positive battery connection as I have replaced it before and know that it can be a culprit. The wire insulation is cracked in places but the connectors have dielectric grease in them. I go attempt to start the car again and it does get power temporarily but does not fire up and I have zero electric. I fiddle with fusible link, come back and turn key to ACC power, and get dash lights, radio, etc., but still cuts all power when I attempt ignition. I hope this is just the short wired fusible link and not a short somewhere as it does cost a bit of coin for what it is ~$30 shipped.


    TL;DR Car won't start, battery will not charge, brake pedal rubber stops for brake switches disintegrated, replace pads & battery, car starts, shut off, attempt to re-start, no power to lights/ignition, jiggle battery fusible link, get power on ACC, everything shuts off again when I attempt to start the car, order PN 24022-F6100 and hope for remedy.
    Last edited by Nitelife; 08-25-17 at 07:17 PM.

  2. #2
    Exhaustipation!
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    The battery terminal clamps like to crack too.

  3. #3
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    They seemed to be okay; definitely the negative one is fine. I will check them out more thoroughly when I receive the fusible link (perhaps as early as tomorrow), and report back.

  4. #4
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    I had this same problem with my 95 Auto P10. I asked for junkyard replacements and the problem has (mostly) gone away. Been back once or twice but has never killed my battery. The car would die when running, all power was cut to the car. No clock, no juice at all. I wiggled that connection and I could hear power come back and sure enough when I walked back over to look into the dash I could see the power restored and I could start the car as normal. The inside of this connection I could see burn marks. I think the best recourse would be to re-plug that end with a new terminal end. See photo below.

    YAZAKI Connectors Catalog

    This the end? This is the problem in my G20. I have spare male ends that this harness "loosely" plugs into. And this is an unsealed connection. Stunning as this handles all the positive juice in and out of the entire vehicle. I have jammed the connection full of di-electric grease and once I got the "angle" of the connection correct, I have had good results with my OEM setup but that stuff is not up to snuff and sounds similar to your problem.

  5. #5
    Exhaustipation!
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    @Kyle does that terminal end come with the wire connection, or is that separate?

    ...and his battery was killed when the grommet on the brake pedal failed.

  6. #6
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    I got part 24022-F6100 in the mail, immediately installed, and the car fired right up! Confirmed to work (for the time being) in my 1992 SE-R. I hope this helps someone out in the future.

    I also inspected the battery terminals, all clean no cracks.
    Last edited by Nitelife; 08-26-17 at 10:34 PM.
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    www.sr20forum.com/itrader.php?u=5896

  7. #7
    OEM Plus.
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    .No pictures?

  8. #8
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    Here is a picture of the OEM packaging with the old fusible link. The new fusible link has all black end clips (no grey) and the wire is a lighter color.

    I ordered from Infinitipartsdeal.com for 28.50 shipped. Plenty of other sites want more (up to double), especially those marketing these for imported Silvia's and GTRs (IIRC). Those are the ones I originally found but cross referenced on another site.



    Also since I mentioned replacing the brake pedal bumpers I thought I would add the part number to reference. These came individually snipped/snapped off of a molded line I suppose; no packaging.

    Nissan 46512-H0101 OEM Rubber Stopper for Brake Light
    Last edited by Nitelife; 08-29-17 at 11:38 PM.
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    www.sr20forum.com/itrader.php?u=5896

 

 

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