Welcome to the SR20 Community Forum - The Dash.
Results 1 to 15 of 15
  1. #1
    Member
    User InfoUser ActivityThanks StatsUser Tagging StatsiTrader Feedback
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Tinton Falls, NJ
    Posts
    1,290

    Default Bleeding master cylinder? Any tips / best practices?

    Hello All,

    Since swapping in my new motor and converting to non abs I have not found anything on bleeding the master cylinder. I read about bench bleeding etc but my stuff is all installed on the car.

    My one friend said I can just open up all the bleeders and let it gravity bleed. And then once I have fluid coming out of all 4 bleeders I can close them all up and proceed to do a the standerd bleeding.

    Is this correct for our cars?

    Doing it this way the front calipers both starting spitting bubbles and eventually just fluid but the rears aren't really doing anything.

    Any advices would be great I hope I dont have to bench bleed as the master cylinder has fluid in it and was a paint to setup dont wanna get brake fluid on my newly painted engine bay.

    Thanks in advance,
    -DG:. SR20's since 97
    08 BMW 328i Sport 6MT
    92 Sentra SE-R DET
    - DET Build Thread

  2. #2
    Member
    User InfoUser ActivityThanks StatsUser Tagging StatsiTrader Feedback
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    scotch plains, nj
    Posts
    409

    Default

    problem with bleeding is that the MC sucks air back in when you release the pressure. so either keep your fingers over the

    do it the right way. get the bleeder plastic attachments from NAPA or an auto store. there's 4 of em, so you'll probably need to buy 2 sets. use the hoses to dump into the resevoir and suck in fluid on release. if it's still on the car, you probably will need help to keep the hoses in the resevoir. other option is to use your fingers to cap off the holes while pumping, but you will need help. then install the hard lines.
    Marsh Tuned SR20DE+T powered '88 Nissan Pulsar NX SE
    my build thread

    "It doesn't matter if you win or lose, as long as you look good doing it"

  3. #3
    SR20VETeran
    User InfoUser ActivityThanks StatsUser Tagging StatsiTrader Feedback
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Copperas Cove, Tx
    Posts
    9,309

    Default

    Rule of thumb when bleeding brakes. Start at the furthest brake caliper from the master cylinder and work your way to the closest. So in our case, right-rear, left-rear, right-front, left-front. One at a time. If you dont have any of the bleeding equipment and tools and stuff just do it the old fashioned way of pumping the brakes, hold, open bleeder. I like to give it about 10 pumps, hold to the floor, open the bleeder to let the air escape, close, then let of the brake. Must hold brake down to the floor, once the pedal gets stiffer. You need to let it travel to the floor without letting it move back upwards at all or it will suck air back in. Do it to all 4 in the order i described and be done with it.

    A lot of shops have machines that hook up to the master cylinder in place of the cap and actually applies a small air pressure to the brake fluid then they just go around one by one and open the bleeders until a steady stream of fluid comes out. Again working from furthest from the MC to the closest. Top off reservoir and done.

    When your doing the pumping procedure you tend to go through more fluid so just make sure the fluid level in the reservoir is not to the point where air will get in and then have to start all over. Basicly do one caliper at a time and top off reservoir.
    1992 Nissan Sentra SE-R - Fully Built SR20VE, BWS400SX Billet 67mm and much more
    JMS Racing tuned to 716whp, 423wtq at 29psi
    10.5 @ 149.2mph to date I believe the fastest trap speed SE-R, Much more to come with some changes!

  4. #4
    Member
    User InfoUser ActivityThanks StatsUser Tagging StatsiTrader Feedback
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Tinton Falls, NJ
    Posts
    1,290

    Default

    Thanks guys, I know how to bleed the brakes for the most part its just the master cylinder that concerns me since I swapped from non-ABS.

    I have a friend who says he knows a way using a special vacuum or something ill keep everyone posted. Maybe it can help others out.
    -DG:. SR20's since 97
    08 BMW 328i Sport 6MT
    92 Sentra SE-R DET
    - DET Build Thread

  5. #5
    The People's Mod
    User InfoUser ActivityThanks StatsUser Tagging StatsiTrader Feedback
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Columbia, SC
    Posts
    16,048

    Default

    I was a total noob when I installed my Altima MC. I put it on the car dry, filled it with fluid and bled the brakes as normal. Worked out supremely. Never even thought about doing it differently. I guess I got lucky...

  6. #6
    Member
    User InfoUser ActivityThanks StatsUser Tagging StatsiTrader Feedback
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Tinton Falls, NJ
    Posts
    1,290

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BenFenner View Post
    I was a total noob when I installed my Altima MC. I put it on the car dry, filled it with fluid and bled the brakes as normal. Worked out supremely. Never even thought about doing it differently. I guess I got lucky...
    Dude I thought the same, No clue you had to bleed the M/C ( NEWB AS well )

    Hopefully everything goes good I can almost taste boost, Now that 3" exhaust kicked my ass with the Kart Boy hangers OMG it like feels like its bolted to the chassis its so stiff was hard to align but now doesnt budge.

    Going to have to make a new center/cat bracket though hacked the stock to work for now.
    -DG:. SR20's since 97
    08 BMW 328i Sport 6MT
    92 Sentra SE-R DET
    - DET Build Thread

  7. #7
    Member
    User InfoUser ActivityThanks StatsUser Tagging StatsiTrader Feedback
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Northeast Florida
    Posts
    815

    Default

    When I installed my altima master cyl, and max rear brakes I put a hose on the master cyl lines and blew them all out dry. I did that to get all of the old fluid out. It was real nasty looking. Probably never done before. I ran a good bit of fresh fluid through it in the cleaning process. I upgraded my fluid to DOT4 since it lasts longer. The DOT3 is said to be good for 1 year, while DOT4 lasts 3 years. This is all based on the rate it absorbs moisture from the air. I don't know of anyone who gets a brake fluid change, or any other fluid change besides oil. Hell some ppl skip that, and then get pissed when their car brakes down, lol. It's that good old routine maintenance.

  8. #8
    wes
    wes is offline
    Jackass Wordsmith
    User InfoUser ActivityThanks StatsUser Tagging StatsiTrader Feedback
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    1,066

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ashtonsser View Post
    Rule of thumb when bleeding brakes. Start at the furthest brake caliper from the master cylinder and work your way to the closest. So in our case, right-rear, left-rear, right-front, left-front. One at a time. If you dont have any of the bleeding equipment and tools and stuff just do it the old fashioned way of pumping the brakes, hold, open bleeder. I like to give it about 10 pumps, hold to the floor, open the bleeder to let the air escape, close, then let of the brake. Must hold brake down to the floor, once the pedal gets stiffer. You need to let it travel to the floor without letting it move back upwards at all or it will suck air back in. Do it to all 4 in the order i described and be done with it.

    A lot of shops have machines that hook up to the master cylinder in place of the cap and actually applies a small air pressure to the brake fluid then they just go around one by one and open the bleeders until a steady stream of fluid comes out. Again working from furthest from the MC to the closest. Top off reservoir and done.

    When your doing the pumping procedure you tend to go through more fluid so just make sure the fluid level in the reservoir is not to the point where air will get in and then have to start all over. Basicly do one caliper at a time and top off reservoir.
    This thread is about bleeding the MASTER CYLINDER, not the brakes....

    I personally bench bleed them before installation. They sell kits that are plastic fittings with plastic tubes that you run off the brake line fittings and into the MC itself. Fill it with fluid and pump away. This is THE BEST way to do it on or off the car. If you buy a new MC they typically give you the kit....
    2008 STi
    2009 Mini Cooper Clubman S
    2005 Lotus Elise
    1996 Nissan 200SX gone but not forgotten...

  9. #9
    Member
    User InfoUser ActivityThanks StatsUser Tagging StatsiTrader Feedback
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Tinton Falls, NJ
    Posts
    1,290

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by wes View Post
    This thread is about bleeding the MASTER CYLINDER, not the brakes....

    I personally bench bleed them before installation. They sell kits that are plastic fittings with plastic tubes that you run off the brake line fittings and into the MC itself. Fill it with fluid and pump away. This is THE BEST way to do it on or off the car. If you buy a new MC they typically give you the kit....
    Thanks Wes, I believe this is kinda what my buddy is talking about something about lines and a mighty vac he was saying. Ill keep everyone posted. Just wanna get everything done right the first time.

    Thanks again
    -DG:. SR20's since 97
    08 BMW 328i Sport 6MT
    92 Sentra SE-R DET
    - DET Build Thread

  10. #10
    Member
    User InfoUser ActivityThanks StatsUser Tagging StatsiTrader Feedback
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Northeast Florida
    Posts
    815

    Default

    ^^Well, if you have everything installed already, and you bleed the calipers, you are effectively bleeding the master cyl as well. Since that's the fluid's origin point. I just put that anti-squeel spray on my pad backs, and rebled my entire system last weekend. I went by home depot and picked up a roll of that clear poly tubing to attach to the bleeders. It was 1/4" I.D. x 20' for less that $5.00 I just run that into an empty oil bottle for disposal, and so I don't make a big mess. If you had some one man bleeder screws, or a one man bleeder pump then its pretty easy. If you don't it will require 2 ppl. I always use some of that clear poly hose no matter what though, it helps alot.

  11. #11
    Member
    User InfoUser ActivityThanks StatsUser Tagging StatsiTrader Feedback
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    110

    Default

    maybe you can use this information, you can bleeth by yourself

    http://www.sr20-forum.com/suspension...build-kit.html
    doing nothing :eek:

  12. #12
    Member
    User InfoUser ActivityThanks StatsUser Tagging StatsiTrader Feedback
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Tinton Falls, NJ
    Posts
    1,290

    Default

    Well we kinda went with a bench bleeding method in the end and the pedal now feels great. My buddy opened the lines at the MC until we got all air out of the MC and then did the normal bleeding method a few times each time getting some air out. Now the pedal feels like a champ. There was a ton of air in the system.
    -DG:. SR20's since 97
    08 BMW 328i Sport 6MT
    92 Sentra SE-R DET
    - DET Build Thread

  13. #13
    Weekend Warrior
    User InfoUser ActivityThanks StatsUser Tagging StatsiTrader Feedback
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    GA
    Posts
    6,374

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by wes View Post
    This thread is about bleeding the MASTER CYLINDER, not the brakes....

    I personally bench bleed them before installation. They sell kits that are plastic fittings with plastic tubes that you run off the brake line fittings and into the MC itself. Fill it with fluid and pump away. This is THE BEST way to do it on or off the car. If you buy a new MC they typically give you the kit....
    Quote below is from the OG forum.

    Quote Originally Posted by wes View Post
    I just did this last weekend. The best method is to follow the FSM. It states to have the brake lines disconnected from the MC. Top it off with fluid, place your fingers over all 4 ports and have someone pump the brakes until no more air comes out of the MC (it will bubble up in the fluid in the MC). It worked perfect!

    I spent the hour before that trying to use fittings in the MC and fluid to try and bleed it on the bench, I did nothing but make a mess and burn through a bottle of fluid......
    ^What about this method? Work just as well?

    P.S. Is this with the lid on or off?

    Bleeding the Brake Master Cylinder - HOW?? - SR20 Forum

    ^Source link post #5

    ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    OFF TOPIC (but still related)

    Quote Originally Posted by eric96ser View Post
    If you don't bleed the system in the correct order, the pedal will be soft. Going from the furthest to the closest, is good for changing the fluid, but not for bleeding. For the B13, the order is LR, RF, RR, LF. Try bleeding in that order, and not pushing the pedal all the way to the floor, and not too quick. I use clear hose, so you can see the air in the lines. My wife helps me bleed them, and all the cars we have done, have been perfect. I have her pump the brakes a few times, and hold it. With the clear hose attached, I open the bleed screw. With it still open, I have her pump the brakes. You will see the fluid come out, and any air bubbles. Once the fluid is clean, I have her hold the brakes while I close the bleed screw.

    The fluid in the hose keeps air from entering the system with the bleed screw open. Make sure the MC doesn't empty and you will be good.
    Quote Originally Posted by eric96ser View Post
    I've bled my brakes using the furthest to closest, and they felt soft. After using the correct order, they were rock solid.
    ^Can someone explain the parts in red?

    brakes bleed but stull mushy. - SR20 Forum

    ^Source link post #15 and #20.
    Last edited by MR-4Door-SR20DET; 11-30-11 at 04:23 PM.
    Bend But Don't Break
    93 SE-R Project 2Door - 2.0VE Gio tune - built 2.3VE up next.
    93 XE-R Project 4Door - DE+T - Money Pit.
    Building N/A and Boost, the best of both worlds.
    Quote Originally Posted by SR20GTi-R View Post
    NA is a thinking man's game, alot of people dont have the stomach to play NA.

  14. #14
    DRIVING SER's SINCE 1993
    User InfoUser ActivityThanks StatsUser Tagging StatsiTrader Feedback
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    philadelphia pa
    Posts
    1,651

    Default

    The easier way is bench bleeding by locking the master in a vice then atatching the caps that come with the master cyl (in most cases ) and pushing the piston in and opening the fitting like a nornal bleed proccess . Never pump the master when bleeding and empty system or master . Only push down 1 time and hold it releasing the bleeder or cracking the line loose then repeat untill fluid comes out . As pumping will cause the brake fluid to foam and fill with air bubbles . Also do the same when replacing main lines or rubber lines . But if doing a regular brake flush on a full system then pumping 3-5 times is ok . This ofcourse is allways easier with bleeder tool the atatches to the top of the resivoir . The gravity bleeding does not get it completly air free but it does help move fluid along threw empty lines . Abs cars are more difiicult to bleed and some times may require the car to be running like some GM models to open the valves in the pump unit .
    Last edited by tsuruser; 11-30-11 at 06:08 PM.
    RETIRED 19 YEARS IN THE B13 GAME ! Be right back in a Datsun 510 ...
    MY B13 TURBO PART OUT THREAD >>>
    http://www.sr20-forum.com/oem-parts/...-part-out.html

  15. #15
    I like to tinker
    User InfoUser ActivityThanks StatsUser Tagging StatsiTrader Feedback
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    New York
    Posts
    152

    Default

    thread bump..
    what size are the 4 fittings on our master cylinder? specifically the NX master cylinder if it makes a difference. I was going to order 2 of those kits from rockauto to bench bleed it before I put it on. None of the local autoparts stores have bench bleeder kits & they all look at me like I have a hole in my head when I ask about ordering one lol
    2012 Corvette, cam, headers and more. 460whp/400tq
    1992 Sentra SE-R, AD22's, SSR integrals, preparing for boost
    SOLD... 2000 S2000 - F22, Novi 1200 blower @ 15psi

 

 

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Back to top