Thread: High Comp SR20DE/VE build

Posted on NS, reposting here.

After asking several people with no reply, and no success from Google (the last week I've been searching on and off), even sent Mazworx an email, nothing. The main point of this thread is at "Logistics"

As some of you may know, I'm a dreamer, but I do make my dreams a reality.. So please bare with me as this is all planning, and I need to plan before I make big decisions, because the last thing I want to do is waste money where it's not meant to be wasted (talking about on things I'll buy but not use, nothing to do with "no point chucking money into an N/A sr20"). Also I realise you're not allowed to drive a vehicle with a modified motor if you're on your P plates, and this week be a weekender/track car, and there's plenty of others driving cars with FI or 8+ cylinders, so please nothing to do with P plate restrictions (other than turbo).

To the point
So, the car is an S15 Spec-S N/A Auto, and yes the first thing I will do is convert it to Manual, which I won't install until I swap the motor out. I've been quoted $1500 from Nizzpro for the box/pedals/MCC and SCC, and I'm looking at that option and several other alternatives for the transmission (possibly z32), but that'll be looked into closer to the date.

I've been thinking for the last couple of months about building/buying a high comp SR20DE, was looking into the Autech motor, but I've decided that a rebuild will be more fun, and hopefully more cost effective.

So I have a mate who found an S15 SR20DET block at his workshop and I have the chance to pick it up for $100. The block itself looks in good nic' with a build up of shit. he was going to disassemble it but I'm glad he didn't as I would have liked to blueprint it, which (yay) I can still do I'm always really picky and OCD when it comes to doing something right, though I have a tendency to rush into things too.. Though this is something I'd like to take my time with, as there is no rush, and I would prefer it was done right the first time so I don't blow it up or end up having to replace things. But as I said, the block is in okay shape, Cylinders have surface rust on them but nothing a light hone won't fix. The crank pulley was rusted to shit and old mate's pulled apart the water pump.. But this is easy enough to replace.

Going to do general modifications, such as removing sound deadening, seam welding, stripping bits but keeping the interior, as it will still be a daily/weekender. And I have to look into brakes as there next on the list to replace.

Logistics
Now I'm having trouble finding information to do with parts and what not. I'm not intending to stroke it, as my budget isn't too impressive, it's more of a, lets say "hobbiest" budget. By the looks of the Pistons they're reusable, but it's a DET block so it's an 8.5:1 comp, which just wont do Now I'm looking at Pistons for it, and I'm most likely going to bore the cylinders out to 87-89mm, depending on how I feel when I do it, but when looking at piston's, I'm a little bit perplexed. I look at SR20DE pistons, and they only go up to 10.5:1 compression, though when I look at SR20VE pistons, they go up to 12.5:1? Is this because of the capacity of the chamber with the VE head, Or is it the piston itself? So would I be able to achieve a compression of 12.5:1 with a NVCS (VCT) head, or would I have to start looking at the VE head.

That's another option I'm stumped at, as I'd like to do most of the work myself, even tanking.. Would it be worthwhile spending the money to get a VE Head, I've been trying to find out more information about the swap, but I can't seem to find out block compatibility. The only real thing that I know I have to do is the solenoid relocation. I've seen people don't agree with VE conversions on an N/A build, as the power doesn't justify the cost of the conversion, but that's what I'm trying to find out. At the moment It's just the block so I'm open to opinion's and options, as well, there's nothing there..

So that's as far as I've gone in terms of research, if there's anything i've missed, or will have to do/look at, please inform me as I have no clue.
I kind of lost my train of thought as my concentration goes as soon as someone walks in and starts talking to my college.. So sorry if i've missed anything.

Thanks SR20

If you go with a customer rod/piston combo there's no reason you can't get it up to whatever compression you want. For max efficiency i'd look at something around 14:1. Costs the same as 12:1 and you get power/efficiency out of it on likely the same fuel.

Never thought about custom rod's and pistons, could be an option.
I'm looking at a 91mm Stroker and 88mm Pistons, should have it's advantages.

Would I run into any trouble with going with a 14.1:1 compression? What would I have to look out for? Obviously I'll have to run a good intake and exhaust system, and a decent set of head studs, but i'm not not sure what extra I'd have to do If I went that high.

Trying to find somewhere to do WPC treating, though I don't think there's a place in Australia that does it..

good fuel if you wanna go that high, 13:1 is the place where everybody seems to aim for, ill say 13:1/ve head/good i.h.e/and naws and u should be content. u could also go sr16 pistons, raise the compression the cheap, new rings, bearings and gaskets and have some fun.

I say screw the SR20 and get a hold of a VQ35HR. With the normal bolt on stuff and a tune you will be close or at 300whp with some good TQ numbers.

agreed

@ Blue, being in Australia and being on my Provisional plates, I'm technically not allowed to have any engine modifications, so going from a 4 cyl to a 6 cyl wouldn't make me too friendly with the po-po, also if i was to I'd just get an RB26 haha..

That's why it's good to have the Sr20, so atleast it'll look stock, and if they question why the block number is different then I'll say the first engine blew and this was a replacement, how would they know it hits 150kw+ :P

On topic though,
I've seen alot about SR16 Pistons, though with the extra stroke, I assume I'll have to get them shaved?? Either way it should be all cruisey still.

Talking to someone on NissanSilvia.com and I've decided to go for the ITB option going to an intake chamber with a Panel filter, i'll do up a drawing to what I invision it to look like.

I have these options.
Tomei ITB - $2500
Other ITB - $1500
Custom made from M3 E46 ITB's - Unknown..

Still in the investigation stages though so anything's possible.
The build price seems to keep going up haha..

Block $100
head $600-$800
Head conversion kit - $1500 max
ITB - $1500-$2500
Rods and Pistons - $500-$1000
Stroked Crank $1300-2000
Haltech ECU - ????
So much just keeps adding up... Let's hope it's worth it..

it wont be better off boosting it or throwing nitrous at it for your best bang for the buck mods

I get that, but that's the point of the N/A Build. It's for the street and I'm legally not allowed to drive with ANY mods.

You can't get the car certified with all the OEM VQ stuff installed into it? It would be cheaper by a mile to just throw in a oem motor with exhaust and a header. Also if the po-po is the problem just don't drive like a mad man and keep the car quiet and not flashy (slammed to the ground, big wheel, cage, huge spoiler, no interior).